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The stone backlands
The Cariri is one of the driest regions in Brazil: granite outcrops, caatinga scrub, reservoirs in the middle of nowhere and small towns with an enormous culture. This is where Ariano Suassuna set his play Auto da Compadecida, and where Cabaceiras, the north-eastern “Hollywood”, lies. From the coast, the trip really starts in Campina Grande.
- Boqueirão: 175 km, about 2h40
- São João do Cariri: 213 km, about 3h10
- Serra Branca: 233 km, about 3h30
- Taperoá: 254 km, about 3h50
- Monteiro: 301 km, about 4h30
Boqueirão and the Epitácio Pessoa reservoir
Boqueirão is the gateway to the Cariri. The Epitácio Pessoa reservoir, which supplies Campina Grande, forms a huge lake among hills and mandacaru cacti, with boat trips and fish restaurants on the shore. In the countryside, the Lajedo do Marinho has rock formations, rock paintings and the state's first permanent campsite.
Cabaceiras and the Lajedo de Pai Mateus are less than an hour from Boqueirão — we have a separate guide for them.
São João do Cariri and Serra Branca
São João do Cariri is one of the oldest towns in Paraíba's interior, with the church of Nossa Senhora dos Milagres at the top of a flight of steps, colonial houses and granite outcrops in the countryside. It is part of the Cariri Environmental Protection Area and the Cariri Paraibano Geopark, together with Cabaceiras and Boa Vista.
With Serra Branca and Caraúbas, São João do Cariri makes up the Saberes e Deslumbres creative route of crafts, food and landscape. Serra Branca has lookouts over the caatinga that are worth a late afternoon.
Taperoá, Ariano's land
Taperoá is where Ariano Suassuna's Auto da Compadecida takes place; the writer spent part of his childhood in the town. The Caminhos de Ariano route leads to the Fazenda Carnaúba, owned by his family, which makes goat's cheese and houses the Ilumiara Jaúna, one of the armorial art spaces he conceived.
In town, the main church, the square and the arched bridge over the river complete the visit. Check in advance about visiting the farm, which is by appointment.
Monteiro and Renaissance lace
Monteiro, in the western Cariri, is the capital of Renaissance lace: some 3,000 lacemakers work in and around the town, and its title of World Crafts City recognises that work. A reference centre opened in 2021 brings together pieces and lacemakers, and the Zabé da Loca Festival honours the fife player who lived in a rock shelter in the countryside.
It was also through Monteiro that, in 2017, water from the São Francisco river transfer project entered Paraíba. For hikers, the Serra da Engabelada and the Laje das Moças offer long views over the Cariri.
Three-day route and tips
- Day 1: João Pessoa → Campina Grande → Boqueirão, with late afternoon at the reservoir.
- Day 2: Cabaceiras and the Lajedo de Pai Mateus in the morning, São João do Cariri in the afternoon.
- Day 3: Taperoá and Monteiro, or back along the BR-230 via Campina.
- The sun is strong all year: hat, sunscreen and plenty of water.
- From June to August the nights are cold; bring a jacket.
- Fill up whenever you can: petrol stations are far apart.
- Lodging is simple in most towns; book ahead.
Back in the capital, MAREVI manages serviced flats and apartments on the João Pessoa seafront, from Cabo Branco to Bessa, with a full kitchen and our own team. Book directly on WhatsApp and you skip the platforms' fee.
