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Where it is
Barra de Camaratuba is in Mataraca, at the far north of the Paraíba coast, about 110 kilometres from João Pessoa — around two hours by car. It is one of the best-preserved stretches of the state's coast.
The Camaratuba river zigzags down to pour its reddish water into the sea, on a golden-sand beach ringed by palm groves. And one detail defines the place: there is almost no mobile signal.
River and sea on the same beach
The right-hand end of the beach, by the river mouth, is the best spot. There you choose: sea, the river's fresh water, stand-up paddle or kayak. With strong waves and wind, it is also a surf and kitesurf spot.
Across the river
At low tide you can cross the river on foot to Praia das Cardosas, untouched, with low dunes and reddish cliffs. That is when small warm natural pools form. A 4x4 can cross on a hand-pulled ferry.
Check the tide table first. The crossing on foot only exists at low tide, and you need to come back before the water rises.
The Caranguejo-Uçá trail
The right-hand side of the river mouth is protected by the Caranguejo-Uçá Ecological Park, a 178-hectare reserve. The trail is about 3 kilometres and runs from the mangrove to the river mouth, alternating walking with floating down the river. It is run by the Camaratuba village, of the Potiguara people.
Day trip or overnight?
You can go and come back the same day with an early start — but that is four hours of driving in total, and the tide decides the best time on the beach. If you can, stay a night: the village has small beachfront guesthouses.
For the rest of the trip, the most practical base is still João Pessoa, with all the capital's infrastructure and the rest of the northern coast one stretch a day.
