PT
EN
ES
Before you set off
João Pessoa, founded in 1585, is the third-oldest city in Brazil, and almost all its historic centre fits into a two-to-three-hour walk. The route starts in the Upper Town, home to the palace and churches, and ends by walking down to the Lower Town, in Varadouro, on the Sanhauá river — ideally at sunset.
- Wear trainers: there are slopes and cobbles.
- Start between 2 and 3 pm to finish at sunset, or early, before the heat.
- Museums and churches keep their own hours and change on holidays: check first.
- Bring water and sunscreen, and clothes covering shoulders and knees if you go into churches during Mass.
1. The Lagoa and the Palácio da Redenção
Start at Parque Solon de Lucena, the Lagoa, ringed by royal palms. From there a few blocks lead to Praça João Pessoa, in front of the Palácio da Redenção, the former seat of government, which now houses the Museu de História da Paraíba — free, Tuesday to Saturday, 9 am to 4 pm. Outside is the mausoleum of João Pessoa, whose assassination in 1930 gave the city its name.
2. Carmo, the Basilica and São Bento
Carry on to Praça Dom Adauto, where the Carmelite complex brings together the church of Nossa Senhora do Carmo, the church of Santa Teresa and the Bishop's Palace — one of the most photogenic corners of the centre. Just ahead are the Basilica of Nossa Senhora das Neves, the cathedral, on the site of the city's first church, and the São Bento Monastery, on Rua General Osório, with one of João Pessoa's most balanced baroque façades.
3. Centro Cultural São Francisco and Casa da Pólvora
The highlight of the walk is the Centro Cultural São Francisco: a church and convent built between the late sixteenth and eighteenth centuries, with a broad forecourt, Portuguese tiles and gilded carving, plus a museum of sacred and popular art. Allow at least an hour. On the Ladeira de São Francisco, the Casa da Pólvora, from 1704 to 1710, once stored gunpowder and is one of the city's oldest landmarks.
4. Down to Varadouro
Walk down to the Lower Town to Praça Antenor Navarro, surrounded by restored colourful townhouses. Nearby are the eighteenth-century Casarão dos Azulejos, its façade covered in Portuguese tiles, and the old Hotel Globo, whose terrace is the classic viewpoint for sunset over the Sanhauá river. Finish there, watching the sun go down over the mangroves.
On Saturdays you can start with Sabadinho Bom, free samba and choro in Praça Rio Branco from 12.30 pm. To get back to the seafront, call a ride-hailing car — about 20 minutes.
MAREVI manages serviced flats and apartments on the João Pessoa seafront, from Cabo Branco to Bessa, with a full kitchen and our own team. Book directly on WhatsApp and you skip the platforms' fee.
