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Why João Pessoa has so many old churches
João Pessoa is the third oldest city in Brazil, founded in 1585 on the banks of the Sanhauá River. Franciscans, Benedictines, Carmelites and Jesuits arrived early and built convents and churches that, reworked over two centuries, today form one of the most important religious heritage collections in the Northeast.
Almost everything is in the Cidade Alta (Upper Town), the oldest part of the Historic Centre. The distance between one church and the next is measured in blocks — which makes this one of the easiest outings to fit into a trip to Paraíba's capital.
Church of São Francisco and São Francisco Cultural Centre
It is the postcard image of the Historic Centre and the stop you cannot miss. The complex brings together the Church of São Francisco and the Convent of Santo Antônio, built between the late 16th and the 18th century, and is listed by Iphan, Brazil's national heritage institute.
Look out for the wide churchyard with the stone cross in front of the façade, the panels of Portuguese tiles in the cloister and the gilded woodcarving inside. The convent houses a museum of sacred and folk art — allow at least an hour to see it all at a relaxed pace.
Basilica of Our Lady of the Snows
João Pessoa's cathedral is dedicated to the city's patron saint and stands where the first church was built at the founding, in 1585. The building has been rebuilt several times; what you see today, with its two towers, is the result of those works.
It is the heart of the Festa das Neves, in August, when the surroundings fill with stalls, processions and concerts — and the city celebrates its own birthday.
Monastery of São Bento
On Rua General Osório, a few steps from the Basilica, the Benedictine monastery has one of the most balanced Baroque façades in the city. It gets fewer visitors than São Francisco — and, for that very reason, it is usually quieter.
Churches of Carmo and Santa Teresa
Side by side on Praça Dom Adauto, they form the Carmelite ensemble: the Church of Our Lady of Carmo and the Church of Santa Teresa, of the Third Order. Next to them stands the Bishop's Palace. It is one of the most photogenic corners of the Centre.
Church of Misericórdia
On Rua Duque de Caxias, the church of the Santa Casa de Misericórdia is among the oldest religious buildings in the city. It is plain on the outside; it is worth going in to see the interior.
How to plan the route
- Start at the Basilica of the Snows and the Monastery of São Bento, which are close to each other.
- Continue to the Carmo ensemble, on Praça Dom Adauto.
- Finish at the São Francisco Cultural Centre, which needs more time.
- From there, walk down to Praça Antenor Navarro and Hotel Globo to watch the sunset over the Sanhauá River.
Go in the morning, with water and sunscreen. Clothes that cover shoulders and knees avoid awkwardness during mass. And check opening hours before you set out: they change on holidays and religious dates.
