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João Pessoa's Carnival happens beforehand
João Pessoa's big street party does not happen on the official Carnival days: it takes place in the weeks before, at the Folia de Rua, the city's pre-Carnival. Blocos parade through several neighbourhoods with frevo, marchinhas and axé, and the programme ends with the most famous parade, the Muriçocas do Miramar. During Carnival itself the city is more about the beach — and many people take the chance to go to Recife and Olinda, less than two hours away.
The Muriçocas do Miramar
The bloco was born in 1986 as a joke among a group of friends — artists, teachers and journalists — in the Miramar neighbourhood. It grew into one of the largest street blocos in the country and part of Paraíba's intangible cultural heritage. The parade is always on the Wednesday before Carnival, and the city council estimates crowds in the hundreds of thousands.
In 2027, with Carnival on 8 and 9 February, the Muriçocas Wednesday should fall on 3 February. Check the date and route in the official programme, published close to the event.
Other traditional blocos
After the Muriçocas came other blocos that are now part of the tradition, such as the Virgens de Tambaú, from 1987, and Cafuçu, from 1990. From the 1990s the blocos organised themselves into the Folia de Rua, which brings together the city's pre-Carnival programme, with parades almost every day in the weeks before Carnival.
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And on the Carnival days?
On the official days, João Pessoa is a good place for a calm beach with a party atmosphere nearby. Those who want street Carnival go to Recife, where the Galo da Madrugada parades on the Saturday, or to the hilly streets of Olinda, and come back to sleep on the João Pessoa seafront. There are buses and excursions on those days, but the road gets busy: leave early.
Carnival tips
- Book your accommodation early: Carnival is high season, and many flats ask for a minimum stay.
- For the Folia de Rua, arrive the week before Carnival: that is when the Muriçocas and the biggest blocos parade.
- Use ride-hailing or walk: on parade days, the streets along the route are closed.
- Carry little, plus water and sunscreen: the February heat is strong.
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