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January and February: summer and Folia de Rua
It is high season: steady sunshine, calm sea and a busy seafront. In the weeks before Carnival the city lives Folia de Rua, João Pessoa's pre-Carnival, with blocos parading through several neighbourhoods. The most traditional, Muriçocas do Miramar, draws a huge crowd.
Dates and routes change every year and are announced by the city hall close to the event.
March to May: Holy Week and a quiet city
After Carnival things slow down, nightly rates drop and the rainy season begins, getting stronger in April and May. During Holy Week, the churches of the Historic Centre hold celebrations and processions.
June: São João
The capital has June festivals in its neighbourhoods and in the Centre, but the big destination of the month is Campina Grande, about two hours away, with the Biggest São João in the World. Many people do both: beach in João Pessoa and nights of forró in Campina.
July: school holidays
The holidays bring families from all over the country. There may still be showers, but the city fills up — book ahead.
August: Festa das Neves and the city's anniversary
On 5 August, João Pessoa celebrates its birthday and its patron saint, Our Lady of the Snows. The festival takes over the area around the Basilica, in the Centre, with a procession, funfair, food stalls and concerts — one of the city's oldest traditions.
September to November: ipê trees and the best season
The rain goes away, the sea becomes clearer and the ipê trees bloom across the city, especially in Parque da Lagoa. For many, it is the best time to visit: good weather, fewer people and nightly rates below summer levels.
December: Christmas and New Year's Eve on the seafront
High season is back in full. New Year's Eve is celebrated on the seafront, with the beach full of people dressed in white — and since João Pessoa is at the easternmost point of the Americas, some make a point of watching the first sunrise of the year at Ponta do Seixas.
It is the most sought-after period of the year. If you already know you are coming, book early.
