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First: the rain usually passes
In João Pessoa the rain is concentrated from April to July, and even then it tends to come in showers, with sunshine in between. Before you give up on the beach, look at the sky over the sea: often the morning clouds over and the afternoon clears. For the rest of the time, the city has plenty to do indoors — and almost all of it is less than half an hour from the seafront.
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The José Lins do Rego Cultural Centre and planetarium
It is the city's best plan B. Opened in 1982, it is Paraíba's largest cultural complex and sits entirely under a huge roof: theatres, a museum, galleries, a library, a comic library, the Estação Ciência science centre and the planetarium, one of the few in the Northeast. You can spend the whole afternoon there without a drop of rain.
It is in Jaguaribe, about 20 minutes by car from the seafront. Planetarium sessions and theatre listings change every week — check before you go, especially with children.
Museums and churches in the historic centre
Light rain is perfect for the centre: the heat lets up and the main sights are a few blocks apart. The Museu de História da Paraíba, in the Palácio da Redenção, is free and opens Tuesday to Saturday, 9 am to 4 pm. The Centro Cultural São Francisco, a jewel of Brazilian baroque, has a church, convent and sacred art museum — check opening hours and tickets.
On the seafront, the Fundação Casa de José Américo, on Avenida Cabo Branco, opens Tuesday to Sunday, 9 am to 4 pm. The Usina Cultural Energisa, in Tambiá, and the Casa Hermano José, in Jardim Oceania, round off the indoor route.
Crafts and shopping
The Mercado de Artesanato Paraibano, in Tambaú, is covered and has dozens of shops selling lace, ceramics, leather, hammocks and cachaça — you can buy every souvenir on a rainy day. For cinemas, restaurants and shopping, the big malls are close to the seafront: Manaíra Shopping and MAG, in Manaíra, and Mangabeira Shopping, in the south of the city.
A long lunch
A rainy day is a day for a long meal. Fish stew, crab, carne de sol with cassava, tapioca in the late afternoon: Paraíba's cooking suits a cloudy sky. Pick a covered restaurant on the seafront or in your neighbourhood and leave the beach for tomorrow.
- What to eat in João Pessoa: Paraíba's traditional dishes
- Where to eat in João Pessoa, neighbourhood by neighbourhood
With children
- Planetarium and Estação Ciência at the Cultural Centre — the top choice.
- Cinemas and play areas at the malls.
- The comic library and library at the Cultural Centre, for an hour of calm.
- The building's pool if it is only drizzling — in many flats it is covered or on the rooftop.
MAREVI manages serviced flats and apartments on the João Pessoa seafront, from Cabo Branco to Bessa, with a full kitchen and our own team. Book directly on WhatsApp and you skip the platforms' fee.
